
Architectural West - May/June 1999
By: Terry Anderson
How would
you answer this question? If you are
like most roofing consultants or architects, you would probably say, “Shed the
snow and ice.” This is the correct
answer in some cases, but a few things must be considered when making this
decision. If you decide to allow the
s

now to shed, you must take into account the following:
- Penetrations
through the roof should be positioned near the top of the roof, within 5’ of
the ridge line. Why? If snow and ice is allowed to move, its force
will break off any penetrations through the roof. Moving forces are minimized the higher up the
slope you go. This design change alone
will make a big difference by stopping penetration damage from occurring.
- People
and property should not be allowed in areas of shedding snow and ice. Why?
In the past two years there have been at least three deaths in Utah and
Colorado caused by sliding snow and ice off roofs. These deaths could have been prevented if
people had not been in areas of sliding snow and ice or if the snow and ice had
not been allowed to move. Even
professionals such as architects and consultants are not always alert to the
danger to people and property. One
architect’s Maserati was crushed by falling ice and snow. He got it repaired, but made no changes to the
roof. The same thing happened the next
year!
- Dormers
should not be used close to the eave line when the ridge height of the dormer
is much lower that the ridge height of the building. Why?
Snow loads coming down on the main roof are much greater than loads
sliding down from a dormer. Therfore,
the snow and ice come through the small valley and do damage to the dormer
valley and the roofing product on the dormer.
- No snow
retention devices should be used on standing seam metal roofs. Why?
Standing seam metal roofs are made to expand and contract with
temperature changes during the day. This
expansion takes place up and down the metal sheet. Clips are used in the standing seam, rather
than nails through the sheathing because this movement. Clips allow for the expansion without causing
holes to become slots and creating leak problems. Attachment through the panel is only done in
one location, either at the ridge or eave.
If you
glue snow brackets on a roof when it is above 40°, allow a 30 day cure time
with temperatures above 40, and the surfaces of the roof and snow bracket are
both clean, then the roof may hold snow on the brackets may not pull off. However, if temperatures drop, cure time is
not allowed, or the surfaces are dirty, the bracket and snow will come off.
When the
snow bracket is installed correctly, there is still the potential for the whole
roof panel to come off. Consider
this: A 120 lb. per square foot snow
load being held by two or three screws through a panel on a 30’ run of roof. This is incredible weight to put on a few
screws. This is why whole
panels
sometimes slide off the structure, as happened in the ski resort of Whistler,
Canada.
Be
careful about letting snow and ice built up on an outside bearing wall. Why?
Often, when you hear about building collapsing during a snowstorm, a
large amount of snow and ice has fallen off the roof’s eave edge and then
fallen back against the outside bearing wall, collapsing the building. The weight of the snow and ice, which came
off of the roof, is the contributing factor to the collapse.
Gas line
meters should not be installed on the side of the building where snow is
shed. Why? On a house in Park City, Utah, snow and ice
slide slowly down the roof. It
eventually curled under the eave and then broke off. When it fell, it hit the gas line going into
the house. This shot gas into the house
and within a short time, the house exploded into a fire ball.
What
would I, as a roofing consultant, do if I were designing a roof a in a heavy snow
area and the owner wanted a metal roof?
I would
slope the roof to about 5:12 so that I could keep the snow on the roof and
prevent the problems previously noted.
This would also give me more architectural freedom in my design. I would then have access round the building
and not worry about people and property damage.
By keeping the snow on the roof, I could doll up the house with dormers,
eyebrows, walkways etc… to give it the look I want.
I would
design a cold roof system and use the snow as an insulated blanket. This would stop ice dams and also allow me to
vent the attic space. This also
eliminates any water vapor barrier below the insulation. If you do this, remember that air intake and
exhaust size are very important to be sure that enough air is drawn from eave
to ridge. Check charts, such as the ones
in WSRCA & NTRMA Cold Roof Manual.

To hold
the snow on the roof, I would use a flat seam metal roof. This allows me to attach a snow bracket
through the metal without worrying about metal movement caused by expansion and
contraction. It also prevents degrading
the flat seam.
The snow
retention system I would use would be designed and engineered. I would choose a manufacturer that tested its
brackets to a fail point on a flat seam metal roof. The system would have brackets form eave to
ridge to hold all the snow on the roof and not let it move. Having a system like this is similar to a
snow cave in that is also insulates the building.
I would
also consider snow fences above any walkway where layered snow might be a
problem. This would be in addition to
snow brackets throughout the roof system.
Snow fences are only necessary and a good idea in areas where layers of
snow might slip off of each other onto areas where there are people, vehicles,
decks, etc.
The
above system has had great success in Lake Tahoe, Calif., Beaver Creek, Colo.,
Breckenridge, Colo., Sun Peaks, Canada, Grand Targhee, Wyoming and many
more. If you are designing a roof in
cold and snowy regions, a copy of Western States Roofing Contractors
Association’s new manual on sloped roof application in heavy snow areas is
worth the nominal cost.